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Hail to the Chefs, Rising Star: Michael Tusk

“I’ve got to run over to Chez and pick up the pigs,” says Michael Tusk with a grin. ‘They just arrived from Oregon 15 minutes ago.” The chef of Quince, Pacific Heights’ new powerhouse (Willie Brown’s already a regular) with national buzz (“Mike, Gourmet is on the line”), is excited about his latest 400-pound purchase. He likes to keep the oinkers whole, he says, so he can educate his cooks before the parts become dishes like Laughing Stock Farm roast pork leg with braised turnips and freshly dug potatoes.