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Review: Ragazza

So what if this town doesn’t need another California-Neapolitan pizza place — we still want one. More than ever, it seems, judging from a recent hour-and-a-half wait for a table at one of the newest: Ragazza, which opened in September. Sharon Ardiana’s NoPa offshoot of her long-loved Gialina, in Glen Park, is already wooing Little Star loyalists from up the street. Its sleek wood decor (mixed with the same old-time black-and-white family photos)is more hipster-chic than kiddie-centric. And that’s reflected in the menu, which, although similar to Gialina’s, is enhanced by just-like-in-Italy antipasti, such as house-stretched mozzarella with prosciutto di Parma, and asalumi plate assembled with local all-stars like Boccolone mortadella and Fra’Mani salume gentile. Things only get better with the addictive contorni (like the braised greens with bacon and goat cheese) and the brief list of pastas and roasts (try strozzapreti tossed with meaty short-rib rag˘). But – seriously — save room for those ethereally thin pies: the Margherita; the Calabrian chili–spiked Moto; and the Potato, topped with bacon, gooey gorgonzola, and, may we suggest, Ardiana’s signature centerpiece topping, the egg.

311 Divisadero St., S.F., 415/255-1133

[2.5 stars]